Is a Chablis by any other name still a Chablis? Alice & Olivier De Moor are not self-proclaimed "natural winemakers", but in spirit, they are the leading light of this movement in the Chablis region of France. They do produce two Chablis wines, but I am more charmed by this Bourgogne Blanc produced from vines the couple planted themselves 20 years ago right outside their farmhouse in the village of Chitry. These vines are in the Auxerrois, a region separate from Chablis in a political sense more than a geological sense, and according to the De Moor's, if the Chablisienne would get out of their own way, they would realize they have plenty of great terroir to produce more exciting Chardonnay within 30mins of the more hallowed Chablis vineyards. The De Moor's don't follow the letter of the law when it comes to natural winemaking. They do use a little bit of sulfur when bottling and will filter occasionally when needed. These are raw, exciting wines with the nervy, laser-like acidity that we expect out of great Chablis. The acidity here reminds me very much of those wines from the 2014 vintage and the wine has enough fat on it from the warmth of the 2018 vintage to make the texture generous. The wines are untamed, but not feral. This is natural wine I can get on board with every single day. Though this is at a more humble price than the iconic wines of domaines such as Dauvissat, this is honestly more enjoyable and interesting than the last several of these more pedigreed Chablis wines I have tasted.
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