This is a 1.3-hectare parcel adjacent to the town of San Felice in Castelnuovo Berardenga, with a stonier soil profile and a lower clay content than Giovanna's home turf. The vines, now over a decade old, used to be blended into 'Cinque' in their younger years, but she now feels they are ready for prime time, and this wine'”bottled on its own for the first time in 2018'”provides a fascinating counterpoint to 'Le Trame': silkier, higher-toned, and overall prettier, with a more blatant mineral underpinning and less sumptuously fleshy fruit. It spends two years in Stockinger barrels, just like its sister wine, and it comprises nearly entirely Sangiovese, with just a touch of Canaiolo.
While we feel that Chianti is absolutely underrated, it remains true that there are more runaway success stories from producers that gave the finger to the appellation, bottling under the Toscana Rosso banner, than from producers who have stayed loyal to the DOCG. Just look at Antinori's Tignanello or Montevertine's 'Le Pergole Torte' for prominent, highly desired examples of this phenomenon. Podere Boncie is the newest member of this prestigious group, but while Tignanello champions modern techniques and Napa-esque opulence, Boncie's Sangioveses are all about raw, unfiltered and untamed purity.Â Â Opting out of the Chianti Consorzio in 2011, Giovanna Morganti from Boncie has been an outspoken promoter of more non-interventional winemaking and biodynamic farming. TheÂ Sangiovese's have become the reference point for natural winemaking in Tuscany. While the styleÂ floats into the 'natural' realm flavor-wise (and assuredly have developed a heated enthusiasm from that part of the wine community),Â Boncie still possesses the classical Sangiovese profile of dried red fruits, balsam herbs, cured meats, and camphor ash. Despite leaving the Consorzio, this is classic Chianti al Naturale, without pushing into the wild and feral depths of unhinged natural wines.