POJER E SANDRI: YOUR FAVORITE WINE BAR'S FAVORITE WINES

For a family business, Pojer e Sandri's Trentino winery feels more like what might happen if you dropped Andy Warhol's art factory (with David Bowie, Madonna and co. still inside of course) onto the rocky cliffs of the Dolomites. To see what I mean, go no further than their crown-capped Zero Infinito. The most emblematic wine of the Pojer e Sandri ethos, Zero Infinito is an undisgorged Pet Nat of a hybrid grape called Solaris developed by crossing Riesling with Pinot Gris with Muscat with a hand full of Russian (yes, Russian) varieties. The grapes are grown in an isolated forest vineyard to prevent any pesticide contamination but just in case, they're also washed in a patented custom tub (we call it the grape jacuzzi) before pressing. When all is said and done, the wine glints orange with zesty notes of grapefruit peel and candied pineapple.

Beyond the confident irreverence of Zero Infinito, Pojer e Sandri's strengths lie in classic renditions of unexpected, underappreciated grapes. Their flagship is a Muller-Thurgau that crackles with nervy acidity, waxy florals, guava and lime. Far from the neutral German Muller that plays second fiddle to Riesling, it's a BYO hero for your favorite Vietnamese spot. On the red side of things, the Rosso Faye is a Bordeaux style blend that feels more like the earth-tinged Bordeaux of the early 2000s than anything you might find in Trentino. 50% Cabernet Sauvignon is rounded out with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and (why not?) Lagrein, producing a seriously restrained wine with whiffs of pencil shavings, cedar, and just-ripe plum.