2020 Hillick & Hobbs "Estate Vineyard" Seneca Lake Riesling

Paul Hobbs’s Seneca Lake winery has cemented, in just a few short years, a spot at the top of NY Riesling. Only thesecond release, the 2020 is stunning. It’s lucid andbright, but also concentrated and powerful, witharomas of lemon pith, apricot kernel, orchard blossoms, talcum powder and nutmeg. The bone-dry,rock-strewn mineral palate is slippery, even a littleviscous, but it’s quickly drawn into center by a laserbeam of crystalline acidity. There’s a pulse of juicycitrus to the long, tingly finish. Drinking beautifully now, it has at least another decade of life left.