Who's your favorite Gang of Four producer? Who's the best Beaujolais Beatle? Who's your favorite member of the stem-inclusion Spice Girls? As we roll through our Gang of Four Fall offer (four natural producers who, with mentor Jules Chauvet, reinvented Beaujolais) we try to give you a snapshot of each producer. We love all four, and for the collectors out there, these wines combine the cool and limited with unmatched approachability in their youth, but without further ado, on the Jean-Paul Thevenet. Jean-Paul has helmed his estate since taking over for his father in 2008. He still farms old vines biodynamically, he still refuses any amount of Chaptalization or filtering. In comparison to other Gang of Four members, his point of difference comes in long, slow fermentations in cement, giving his wines deeper color, plush supple tannin, and restrained fruit character, followed by 6-8 months in old Burgundy barrels to further broaden the shoulders of the occasionally lanky Gamay grape. His cru wines combine brooding, dark florals with luscious berry fruit and a developing edge of porcini mushroom. Absolutely stunning at any price point, these are must-trys for fans of anything from Burgundy to New World Pinot to Etna Rosso. -WP