Chile is such a delightfully diverse wine country in part because everywhere you look, there's a David & Goliath story. For every established winery polishing their Carmenere/Cab blend, there's an up-and-comer rediscovering the magic of old vine Carignan & Pais. In that sense, Vinateros embodies everything exciting about Chilean wine right now. Working with old (100 years, on average), own-rooted vines on Phylloxera-free volcanic soil, their intensely fresh 'Pais Volcanico' is an explosion of florals, red berries and cut herbs. Organic farming, and spontaneous fermentation in cement further contribute to one of the most unique expressions of terroir in Chile. In both style and ethos, this wine reminds me of my first taste of the re-invented gang-of-four-ified Beaujolais, and if you've seen Beaujolais prices lately, you know how that story ends.