75 years ago when Malvirá was founded, Roero was entirely unheard of, though the region lies across the Tanaro River from the famed Barolo and Barbaresco vineyards and uses the same grapes. Fast-forward to today and Malvirá is THE benchmark producer for the region (except perhaps Matteocorreggia whose top wines are also fantastic). Especially admirable is the winery's commitment to excellence in aging many of their wines until they are 10 years or older for maturity at release. Of the two vintages I am carrying, the 2004 is the more elegant terroir-driven vintage, while the 2000 is the riper more powerful. These wines strike an astounding balance between the modern and the traditional, with the extended cellar maturation and long aging of traditional Barolo meeting the sweet spices of a modernist's French Oak.