2020 Podere Le Boncie "Le Trame" Toscana Rosso

Since Gianfranco Soldera's passing, the metaphorical crown of Sangiovese has been tossed about between a half dozen producers, most with exceptional merit. For all of the Stella di Campalto, Le Ragnaie, and Salicutti requests we get, we rarely see inquiries for these stunning Sangiovese wines from Podere Le Boncie. Giovanna Morganti's Sangiovese-based beauties are the reference point examples for natural winemaking in Tuscany. 300 cases were imported to the United States and only a few made it to Texas. Podere Le Boncie's "Le Trame" is bottled as a 90% Sangiovese with the remaining 10% filled in by Tuscan natives Colorino, Mammolo, Foglia Tonda, and Ciliegiolo. Opting out of the Chianti Consorzio in 2011, she has been an outspoken promoter of more non-interventional winemaking and biodynamic farming. This is Sangiovese wine making laid bare with its dried red cherries, orange peel, dusty earth and spice tones.  Despite leaving the Consorzio, this is classic Chianti al Naturale, without pushing into the wild and feral depths of unhinged natural wines. The style is slightly deeper in color and more robust than most Chianti.

Antonio Galloni of Vinous recently released a report describing the 2021 vintage as [possessing] "some of the most exciting young wines [he has] tasted in more than twenty years of visiting the region". These wines were sommelier secrets, but have recently become critical darlings, receiving high scores and high praise such as reminding Galloni of "Gianfranco Soldera's Brunellos with the more mid-weight body of Chianti ''. I highly encourage lovers of intelligent Sangiovese to pursue these wines.