There may be no greater exemplar of this principle in Burgundy today than Domaine Gérard Mugneret. Great estates in Burgundy are made and not born. Terroir offers raw potential alone, and it is only the tenacity and perseverance of great vignerons that shapes transcendent wines. Previous tastings at the estate have always had exceptional highlights followed by some inconsistent misses that left my enthusiasm measured, but the 2022 lineup that we tasted in March was likely the most consistently excellent lineup we tasted from any domaine. That includes the Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg wines that were at the table next to Pascal's. Comparisons between these estates abound as the domaines are distant relatives both located in Vosne-Romanée. As of the 2022 vintage, the quality at Gerard Mugneret is on par with the exceptional Mugneret-Gibourg estate today (the Echezeaux comes from the Mugneret-Gibourg plot within Quartiers de Nuits), and the wines should be pursued with the same excitement.
With Gérard Mugneret, it was the 2005 arrival of Pascal Mugneret, formerly an engineer, that catalyzed the domain's steady climb into rarified air. The immense improvement at Domaine Gérard Mugneret reflects Pascal's analytical background. He shifted the domaine to biodynamics ten years ago, and he possesses a significant reputation in Burgundy for his vineyard work. Conversing with Pascal always reveals a measured application of trial and error with meticulous attention to detail that extends from vinification all the way to microflora, soil cultivation and canopy management. While we referenced the reputable Mugneret-Gibourg estate, the estate style here is 100% whole cluster at Gérard Mugneret, which stands in contrast to the destemmed style of the former estate. The 2022 vintage at chez Mugneret is distinguished by a singular grace and an ineffable charm that elevates it far above even other very good estates. Most importantly, the 'essential oils' of the varied terroirs are expressed with high fidelity by Pascal's patient and consistent efforts. - BRANDON KERNE, MASTER SOMMELIER
94 Points Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy: "A clear-cut precise purple with quite a closed nose. There is plenty of tension in this wine, more in red fruit, earlier on the palate, pepper and spices behind. Fresh and clean cut, a vertical style of wine."
94 Points Burghound: "A markedly spicier and more deeply pitched nose freely reveals perfumed notes of dark cherry, plum, violet, rose petal, lilac and sandalwood. The velvety, delicious and caressing medium-bodied flavors possess excellent underlying tension if not quite the same concentration on the highly persistent, youthfully austere and beautifully balanced finale that, like the Aux Cras, could use better depth. Even so, this too is quite promising."
